Once considered a symbol of tradition and elegance, the cheongsam—also known as the qipao—has found its way back into the global fashion spotlight. With its high collar, form-fitting silhouette, and side slits, this iconic Chinese dress is being reimagined by designers and embraced by style-conscious individuals worldwide. In Canada and beyond, the cheongsam is not only returning to runways and street style, but it is also igniting conversations about cultural heritage, modern identity, and sustainable fashion.
A Brief History of the Cheongsam
The cheongsam originated in the 1920s in Shanghai, during a time of great social and cultural change in China. Influenced by Western tailoring and traditional Manchu clothing, it quickly became a fashionable choice for modern Chinese women, symbolizing a blend of East and West. Its sleek silhouette became associated with sophistication, and by the mid-20th century, it was worn by socialites, celebrities, and political figures alike.
However, after the Communist Revolution in 1949, the cheongsam fell out of favour in mainland China, as it was seen as too bourgeois. It remained popular in places like Hong Kong and Taiwan, but even there, it eventually became more ceremonial than everyday wear. In recent decades, the cheongsam was often relegated to formal events, weddings, or Lunar New Year celebrations, worn more for its cultural significance than fashion appeal.
A Revival Rooted in Heritage and Innovation
In the last few years, the cheongsam has made a noticeable return—not just among Chinese communities, but across diverse cultures and fashion circles. Young designers, particularly those of Asian descent, are playing a major role in this resurgence. Many are eager to reconnect with their roots while updating the garment to suit contemporary tastes.
Modern cheongsams feature bold prints, unexpected fabrics, and inclusive sizing. Designers are experimenting with denim, mesh, leather, and even recycled materials, challenging the notion that the cheongsam is limited to silk brocade or embroidered satin. Some reinterpretations have removed the high collar, added asymmetrical hems, or integrated Western tailoring techniques to make the dress more versatile.
Canadian designers have also embraced the trend. In cities like Toronto and Vancouver, where multiculturalism is a defining feature, fashion houses and boutiques are giving the cheongsam a contemporary twist. For many Canadians, wearing a modern qipao is a way of expressing cultural pride or solidarity with East Asian communities—especially amid rising awareness of anti-Asian racism and a renewed interest in representation and inclusion.
Pop Culture and Social Media Influence
Pop culture has played a significant role in popularizing the cheongsam’s return. Celebrities like Rihanna, Gigi Hadid, and Lucy Liu have all worn modern variations on red carpets or in editorial spreads. The dress has also made appearances in global media, from music videos to television dramas, helping it re-enter the mainstream consciousness.
Social media, especially platforms like TikTok and Instagram, has also propelled the trend. Young influencers are styling the cheongsam in unexpected ways—paired with sneakers, layered with leather jackets, or worn as oversized shirtdresses. This blending of streetwear with tradition reflects Gen Z’s approach to fashion: eclectic, expressive, and boundary-pushing.
However, the renewed visibility of the cheongsam also raises questions around cultural appropriation. There is an ongoing conversation about who gets to wear the dress, how it is styled, and whether certain uses are respectful or exploitative. Many voices within the Asian diaspora have advocated for increased awareness and dialogue, encouraging people to learn about the dress’s cultural significance and support Asian-owned brands.
Sustainability and Slow Fashion
Interestingly, the cheongsam’s comeback also aligns with another major fashion trend: sustainability. As consumers shift away from fast fashion, many are turning to timeless, versatile pieces that can be styled in multiple ways. The cheongsam, with its flattering fit and adaptable design, is ideal for those looking to build a meaningful wardrobe.
Vintage cheongsams are especially popular, offering a sustainable alternative while connecting wearers to the craftsmanship of past eras. Thrift stores, online marketplaces, and even family closets have become treasure troves for one-of-a-kind finds. Many young people in Canada are embracing second-hand cheongsams not only for their environmental benefit but also for the stories they carry.
A Symbol of Identity and Empowerment
Ultimately, the cheongsam’s resurgence is about more than aesthetics. For many, it’s an act of reclamation—a way to honour their heritage, challenge Western beauty standards, and express pride in their identity. Whether worn for everyday fashion or special occasions, the cheongsam today is a statement piece that bridges generations, cultures, and ideologies.
In Canada’s multicultural landscape, the cheongsam’s revival is particularly poignant. It reflects a growing appetite for diverse voices in fashion and a deeper respect for the cultural narratives behind what we wear. As the industry continues to evolve, the cheongsam stands as a powerful reminder that fashion is not just about trends—it’s about history, identity, and the stories we choose to tell.